PVS-7 not powering on

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PVS-7 not powering on

Postby Rambler16 » Wed Jan 13, 2016 8:44 pm

I picked up a AN/PVS-7b off a friend of mine that currently isn't working. It worked perfectly fine one day then no power the next. Im mechanically inclined, but never worked on NV before, heres where I'm at;



Brand new Energizer AA batteries, turn switch and get nothing, no power, no humming, no IR light.



-Checked battery compartment for corrosion.

-Removed the 8 phillips head screws and examined the + and - from the battery comp.

-Examined the circuit board, nothing is burnt from what i can tell.

-Wires to the switch are connected.

-Tested tube with the method in the manual and it lights up.

-Checked + and - posts that connect tube and they are spotless, no corrosion.



My thinking is the switch is bad, but I'm basing that off common sense. I haven't had much luck researching the subject. Any suggestions on the next step in diagnostic? Can I check contingency with a tester and the two posts in the power supply?



Also the tube reads: MX10130C/UV



Is this model G2 or G3?
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Re: PVS-7 not powering on

Postby wellyot » Thu Jan 14, 2016 4:25 am

yes you can make sure its getting volts to the 2 posts and if there is nothing there then work back with the meter till you get some power
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Re: PVS-7 not powering on

Postby 45K40 » Thu Feb 11, 2016 8:18 am

Rambler16,

From the -23 manual:
If image intensifier does not work after replacing batteries, with known good batteries, perform the
following procedure to electrically troubleshoot the wired housing.
(1) Remove image intensifier (para 3-14).
(2) Set multimeter to measure 3 Vdc.
(3) With known good batteries in battery compartments, position power switch to ON.
(4) Apply test probes to the tube contact pins (Figure 3-5). The red test probe goes to positive
(+) pin and black test probe goes to negative (–) pin.
NOTE
Perform voltage check within 70 ±30 seconds as high light cut-off circuit
will activate in bright daylight or room light but not in fluorescent lighting.
Set power switch to RESET/OFF position to reset goggles if high light cutoff
occurs.
(5) If 2.5 Vdc to 3.2 Vdc is present, replace image intensifier (para 3-14). If voltage is
incorrect, remove and replace wired housing (para 3-16).
The wired housing is replaced as an assembly. I have replaced the mode switch with one from AN/PVS-5 by soldering onto existing
dead switch terminals. I don't recommend trying to de-solder the flex wiring harness, as it takes special tools and skill to do so. You
will bugger it up with a std soldering iron. The board containing the circuitry could be bad too. A wired body assy for PVS-7B/D costs about $100-350,
depending on nwho sells it. Here is one going fast for $110:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PVS-7-Wired-Front-Housing-Assembly-Brand-New-in-Plastic-Free-Ship/172089103736?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140602152332%26meid%3D6f1b17b8ac814fc99b585ea060eb0fd6%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D201047335899

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"See all evil."
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Re: PVS-7 not powering on

Postby Rambler16 » Tue Feb 16, 2016 1:11 pm

thank you for your response I replaced the wire housing and got it working! The image is clear up to 100 feet or so, but if I look at something long distance I get a parallax, or a double vision horizontaly. What would this be caused by? If I close one eye and look it will go away. It is still clear at distance, just sees doubles.
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Re: PVS-7 not powering on

Postby Stanley » Tue Feb 16, 2016 8:06 pm

The collimator is out of alignment and needs to be adjusted into alignment.

Simply follow the procedure laid out in the following to correctly align the collimator.

Image

Image
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Re: PVS-7 not powering on

Postby 45K40 » Wed Feb 17, 2016 1:51 pm

Good deal! I forgot to mention MX10130C U/V is Gen 3. Also a bit of info relating to "AN/PVS-7, is it MILSPEC or civilian spec". MILSPEC bodies have a flex wiring harness (orange plastic), vs civ spec which have point-to-point wiring. MILSPEC bodies show up as olive colored under UV light, civ look black.
Even though your old housing assy is faulty, there are parts worth saving. One is the IR diode as it makes a nice substitute for a button-cell keychain light. You can swap LEDs from white to IR, dummy-cord the light to a Grimlock or S-biner, and now you have a handy IR flashlight.

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